The Skin’s Condition – objectively detected
Corneometer, Tewameter, Cutometer, Sebumeter
Skin Hydration – Corneometer Measurements
Sufficient moisture is the basic prerequisite for a well cared and a smooth skin. Thus, measurements of skin’s moisture are an important part of testing cosmetic skincare products. Just as important is the proof of an anti-dehydrating effect of cleansing products like hand soaps and shower gels. All moisture measurements are performed with the Corneometer®developed in our institute.
Skin Barrier Function – Tewameter Measurements
The barrier function of healthy skin is determined largely by the interaction of skin cells and the lipid layer surrounding them. This prevents too much moisture from evaporating through the skin and causing it to dry out. The skin barrier function is determined by measuring the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). A Tewameter® from Courage & Khazaka is used for this measurement.
For efficacy testing or Claim Support the following objective data are common:
- Proof of no damage to the skin, for example, from surfactants
- Proof of a nurturing effect on previously damaged skin (“nursed back to health“ – curative study)
Skin Firmness and Elasticity – Cutometer Measurements
As skin ages, its mechanical firmness and elasticity decreases. As a result, certain skin areas may appear saggy. The purpose of modern is to counteract this process.
The Cutometer® from Courage & Khazaka, which allows determination of the elastic and plastic properties of the epidermis and underlying dermis, is used for quantification of the mechanical properties of skin.
Delipidizing and Relipidizing Effects – Sebumeter Measurements
The skin is covered for protection by a thin lipid film consisting mainly of sebum lipids and water. The content of surface lipids, like the number of sebaceous glands, shows a strong dependence on the skin region and varies between 50 µg/cm² and 500 µg/cm². If there is an overproduction of sebum, the skin looks oily, which is cosmetically unwanted.
The sebum content of the skin is measured using the Sebumeter®, which was developed in our institute. Alternatively or in combination, the Sebutape® method also finds use.
Whether by kinetics or long-term effect – in order to classify the effect of a product, a suitable reference such as an untreated skin area, standard product and/or placebo should be tested as well.
Depending on customer requirements, measurements can be performed on the face, on the volar forearms but also on any other skin area. Different test populations can be chosen; the duration of testing is variable and is adapted to the respective test product.
Analysis of the data generated includes besides descriptive statistics a statistical analysis of variance as well as graphs of the data as part of the final report (expert report).